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I went this route for my first fixed. The set up works, but you need to use Red Loctite or the assembly will work itself loose if you are applying a lot of back pedal pressure.
I tried no Loctite, and it worked loose in a day (20-30 miles), Blue took a week. Red held it. My next option would have been JBWeld. The converted wheels now have over 10K miles with no issues and are on my girlfriends winter bike.
And I've seen this to be a consistent problem on the handful of conversions I've observed.
-r
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.m-@obra.org [mailto:mike.m-@obra.org]
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 06:47 PM
To: ob-@topica.com
Subject: RE: [OBRA Chat] WTB: Fixed rear wheel
You can use a Surly (formerly "Sub 11.0") Cassette hub converter. The kit
consists of a solid "body" to replace the freehub body, a solid axle. It
includes a set of spacers, allowing the hub to be set up with 120, 126, 130
or 135 mm spacing. It will cost about $70 so there are much less costly
options for your road riding fixed. If you need to use your high zoot race
wheels for something then this is the ticket.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: tgr-@parametrix.com [mailto:tgr-@parametrix.com]
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 10:12 AM
To: ob-@topica.com
Subject: [OBRA Chat] WTB: Fixed rear wheel
I am looking to buy a rear wheel for a fixed gear...either that or if
someone has the know-how to convert a cassette hub to a fixed...I'd be
interested in trying that.
Ted Gresh
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<html><P>I went this route for my first fixed. The set up works, but you need to use Red Loctite or the assembly will work itself loose if you are applying a lot of back pedal pressure. </P>
<P>I tried no Loctite, and it worked loose in a day (20-30 miles), Blue took a week. Red held it. My next option would have been JBWeld. The converted wheels now have over 10K miles with no issues and are on my girlfriends winter bike.</P>
<P>And I've seen this to be a consistent problem on the handful of conversions I've observed.</P>
<P>-r</P>
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