john
probably take it into a bike shop and let them lube it. they probably have the right lube too or opinions of such. This is not a complicated job, so should not cost that much. and not only that you would not need to read any more of this email.
The bearings press out. I would not hammer on them, might ding the races of your smooth bearings.. or if you do, be gentle. .
however, I am guessing you have to get the axle end pieces off first. I am not familar with these, but first double check for a little allen lock screws. should be able to use the quick release rod to knock out the end pieces, exposing the "real" axle. leave the non drive side bearing in, so press the axle from the non drive side to pop out the drive side bearing. The gap to feed lube to the free wheel mechanism should then be right there.
To lube the cassette pawls and bearings, use really light lube, usually wd40 to clean , drip and spin . well i have freehub buddy thingy too, but really its not necessary. then maybe a 5w 30 at the heaviest. ie phil wood chain oil is waay too heavy for the pawls. No spinning load on these bearings so no worries if you just leave the wd40 in there. You mainly just want it clean.
get the hub bearing back in perfectly. as with any two bearing supported axle using bearings that don't allow much misalignment, the secret to longevity (as so many have learned with there outboard bb bearings) is that the two bearings have to be perfectly parallel to each other.
I have found out the hard way, in most cases it doesn't pay to remove the cassette body / freehub from the hub (ie with the 10mm allen wrench, as one would do to convert a 7 speed cassette to a 8/9/10 speed or vice versa). Something happens and it just never lines up right again, even when using straight torque into the bolt... least for shimano, and most inexpensive others are similar. Sometimes you get lucky but half the time, once the cogs get mounted and on bicycle, the cogs will end up wobbling, obviously especially the big ones and shifting is then a delight and thats it, you can't really fix it. They must have special method at the factory to insure proper alignment of the cassette body with the hub bearings. So yeah i stopped messing with that pretty quickly.
Just found this. Looks similar to the old Dura Ace free hub bodies. with the big square threads into the hub. Yeah dont try to take it off, if its like a dura ace, it would take a huge amount of torque anyway.
http://fr.cannondale.com/bikes/tech/kitlist/CO.1.7.Coda%20Expert%20rear%20hub.pdf
You can also take the free hub body apart and look at all the little bearings and pawls. You won't hurt anything (as you might trying to take it fully off), but does take some patience to get it back together. and its just so not necessary. the only time i might take it apart is if there was a lot of slop and it needed to be reshimmed.
Brian Johnson wrote:
Hey all,
I want to take apart my CODA Expert (disc) hubs to inspect and lube
the free-hub mechanism.
I can't figure out how to go about removing the axle. Which way do I
drive the axle? I've tried tapping the rear axle both ways but get no
movement. How about the free-hub mechanism? I've got a 10mm hex
wrench. Will I need something else to remove the free-hub?
Thanks for any tips.
Brian J.
P.S. The bearings are still silky smooth. This is my 2001 Cannondale
MTB I'm talking about here and I'm just amazed at how well they've
held up despite minimal attention.
* * *
My father asks "Do you live here or ride a bike?"
liveorridebikes.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
OBRA mailing list
obra@list.obra.org
http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org