Track Cogs

Mike Murray

2011-05-15

49/15 is a bit stout for a beginner. Any bigger than that is too big until you are experienced. A common mistake for beginners is using too big a gear. It feels good when you go fast but you lose speed control because it is harder to slow down. People are used to bigger gears from road riding but on the road you can shift down when the pace slows and you don't need to use your legs to slow. Track speed is much more about spinning faster and less about pushing big gears.
Mike Murray - Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Ratliff
Sender: obra-bounces@list.obra.org
Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 07:54:55
To: Brandon Sequoia
Cc:
Subject: Re: [OBRA Chat] Track Cogs

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Brian Ratliff

2011-05-15

I'm not the most experienced guy out at the track, but I raced most of all
last season with a 15 tooth Shimano cog (on a Miche Primato hub) and 49,
50, and 51 tooth chainring. That will give you all the racing gears you'll
need for the immediate future at Alpenrose. To go higher in gear inches,
the next step is to get a 14 tooth cog and run a 49/14, which is a pretty
big gear at Alpenrose.

But in the really immediate future, all you really need to race effectively
up to the Cat 3s on the track is a 50 tooth ring and a 15 tooth cog.

my 2 cents at least.

Brian

On Sat, May 14, 2011 at 11:15 PM, Brandon Sequoia <
brandonsequoia@hotmail.com> wrote:

> I'm a little overwhelmed with all the choices and options in making a
> decision about what track cogs to buy. I currently have a generic 16 tooth
> on my wheel, and a Soma 17 tooth that I got at CCC.
> I want a higher quality 16, a 15 and a 14.
> I have Miche Primato hubs, is there any special features about the Miche
> cogs and carrier system?
> And what about the Q2 alloy?
> Any special reason to invest in Dura Ace or Suzue other than durability and
> slower wear?
> I'm on a budget, and am still figuring out what gear ratios to run for
> which events.
> I'd rather get a few of the more affordable options and be able to try
> different ratios than just get one or two really nice ones.
> Any advice?
> Thanks!
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>


Mike Murray

2011-05-15

Track racers obsess about gear ratios. While they are important they are
not as important as you might think. Some very good regional track racers
have only had a single gear on their bike that they have never changed.

Chainrings are more important than cogs. Changing your chainring 1 tooth
will change your gear about 2 inches while changing your cog will change it
about 6 inches. In the road changing the cog 1 tooth is not a big deal but
on the track that one tooth difference will often be the difference between
the biggest and smallest gear you ever race in. A full gear set can be made
with 3 sequential rings and 3-4 sequential cogs. This will allow you to
make roughly 2 inch changes from a low training gear to the biggest gear you
need. For racing at Alpenrose you want gears ranging from the mid 80s to
the mid 90s. Gear inches are calculated by dividing the number of teeth on
the ring by the teeth on the cog and multiplying by the nominal 27 inch
diameter of the wheel. The most common track rings are 46 and 48. A 46/14
will give you a 89 and a 48/15 will be 86. That is a good place to start at
Alpenrose. 46-47-48 rings and 13-14-15-16 cogs will give you gears 78-100.

I think cogs should be made of steel. The marginal weight savings of an
alloy cog is way more than offset by the lack of durability. Most cogs
screw on. Miche developed a splined system with a screw on carrier. The
spline system has advantages but only if you have splined cogs too otherwise
you just have a more complex cog changing system.

Cheap stamped cogs can strip the threads on your hub so they should be
avoided. Beyond that machined cogs are fairly equivalent. Even some of the
expensive cogs can make a lot of chain noise.

If I were you I would get a splined cog that allows you to leave the carrier
on your hub and yields a gear in the upper 80s. Race on that one. Get one
a 1 tooth larger cog and train on that one.

Mike Murray

-----Original Message-----
From: obra-bounces@list.obra.org [mailto:obra-bounces@list.obra.org] On
Behalf Of Brandon Sequoia
Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2011 23:16 PM
To: obra@list.obra.org
Subject: [OBRA Chat] Track Cogs

I'm a little overwhelmed with all the choices and options in making a
decision about what track cogs to buy. I currently have a generic 16 tooth
on my wheel, and a Soma 17 tooth that I got at CCC.
I want a higher quality 16, a 15 and a 14.
I have Miche Primato hubs, is there any special features about the Miche
cogs and carrier system?
And what about the Q2 alloy?
Any special reason to invest in Dura Ace or Suzue other than durability and
slower wear?
I'm on a budget, and am still figuring out what gear ratios to run for which
events.
I'd rather get a few of the more affordable options and be able to try
different ratios than just get one or two really nice ones.
Any advice?
Thanks!
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obra@list.obra.org
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Brandon Sequoia

2011-05-15

I'm a little overwhelmed with all the choices and options in making a decision about what track cogs to buy. I currently have a generic 16 tooth on my wheel, and a Soma 17 tooth that I got at CCC.
I want a higher quality 16, a 15 and a 14.
I have Miche Primato hubs, is there any special features about the Miche cogs and carrier system?
And what about the Q2 alloy?
Any special reason to invest in Dura Ace or Suzue other than durability and slower wear?
I'm on a budget, and am still figuring out what gear ratios to run for which events.
I'd rather get a few of the more affordable options and be able to try different ratios than just get one or two really nice ones.
Any advice?
Thanks!