A better way to start is to replace a bent rim or worn rim. get identical
rim or same ERD, tape the rim together and transfer the spokes over. then
just get the wheel quite true with just a bit of spoke tension, and then go
slow to pull full tension / dish etc. At about half tension i like to do a
run through with the tensiometer as well.
since even tension on all spokes results in a strong wheel, and if that is
your goal, try to stay away from highly dished wheels (yes that means 8/9/10
speed cassettes). An ocr rim helps.
if you build high dish anyway, like most do, then you will need to
compromise, nipple locking (pro-lock, or loctite, etc) on NDS spokes, or
super high tension in the DS spokes and hope your rim last the year before
it cracks out. I personally use nipple washers on spokes that will be
highly tensioned (this takes some care though too) and if i were using a
"professional wheelbuilder" and dropping big $$ I would insist that they do
as well.
By the way, if you are using high quality stainless spokes you really don't
need to replace them (if they were properly aligned/stress
relieved/tensioned and if they make it through the wheelbuilding
process...) This is really an Urban Myth. ( that spokes "wear out" and
need replacing). They don't. If you believe otherwise, you had better quit
going over steel bridges as well (assume maintained, ie not heavily
corroded) !
http://bikeeng.blogspot.com/2009/07/spoked-wheel-part-3-fatigue-cycles.html
You can probably watch something on you-tube as well ? placing the first
spoke and first lace around can be slightly confusing the first time. and
also watching exactly how to "stress relieve" would be nice also.
(actually what is happening is over-stressing the spokes, getting proper
alignment so spoke only has tension/shear and no bending at elbow, taking
advantage of bauschinger effect...)
spoke length selection etc is essential also. If you get it wrong(too long
or short) , ie sorry you have to un-lace and start over. Nipples need to be
nuts and in compression not in tension! I almost always measure rims
myself, just to make sure, because it is a lot of extra work if it is
wrong! And make sure you know how to measure, add for the nipple head also,
you want the spoke to be even or come a little through, like i said it
should be used as a nut in compression, not in tension !!
If i had the time, I would teach an advanced class for
wheelbuilders, covering the physics, materials, engineering, etc, etc..
Building a wheel is a simple thing, understanding the design, the
engineering, the nuances is quite another. Jobst does this a little, but
doesn't really cover low spoke counts, and the whole gambit. I would also
want to run more fea, so as to be able to show the tradeoff strength
differences of say 26" ver 700c, of various spokes counts and rim
profiles..
-john
On Wed, Jun 22, 2011 at 1:44 PM, Brian Ratliff wrote:
> I learned using this website: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html
>
> Best way to do this is start with a wheel you already have and rebuild it
> with new spokes.
>
> On Wed, Jun 22, 2011 at 12:42 PM, David Rosen wrote:
>
>> Does anyone know where I might go to learn how to build wheels? Does
>> anyone here do some teaching? I would like to learn how to build up some
>> wheels for the upcoming CX season. I looked at the UBI website but didn’t
>> see anything specific there, so I figured I would ask the group here and see
>> what you all say. I am in Beaverton, so PDX area classes, etc. only.****
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> Thanks.
>> Dave****
>>
>