Shane Gibson

I use KMC chains. I break Shimano and Sram chains (all different levels of
them) like they're brittle candy. I am cognizant of not cross shifting,
jumping on it while shifting, etc ... but ultimately, will break them. I
went through almost 10 chains in 2 years. Finally found the KMC ones - and
will never switch back. Haven't broken a KMC yet; after 3 years riding on
them. They do rust up pretty quickly if you don't take care of them.
Fortunately I'm pretty anal about completely stripping, cleaning, and
relubing after every dirty or wet ride.

Best of all ... the KMC chains run about $25 and last forever.

~~shane

--
"Opportunities multiply as they are seized." - Sun Tzu

On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 7:36 PM, Mike Richardson wrote:

> Definitely agreed on cheaper chain. I'm a Brand S guy, but I've always run
> Ultegra chain and rear cogs. New chain once a year, can't go DA.
>
> I'm old as well as old-school so I tried reusing the pin. Once. Came apart
> on the first big hill. And the next. Got it now.
>
> Gotta try a cleaning tool -I still use a pop bottle of solvent.
>
> Mike
>
> On Sep 22, 2011, at 6:52 PM, Stewart Campbell
> wrote:
>
> > I see the postings about chainlinks. I thought it was just me that
> couldn't open a sram 10sp chain link.
> > Thanks for the info about using a KMC link.
> > Here are some other thoughts about chains..
> > I once read that evertime you use a chain tool, it slightly weakens the
> chain. Don't know if thats true but it makes sence. And that the pro team
> mechanics pretty much never take a chain off.
> > I than thought to my self what about cleaning. My uncle is a long time
> motorcycle rider and he recomended using kerosene for greasy parts, I tried
> it...holly cow!!!!!! I did the research on various bike forums and everyone
> agrees that it is safe on all metal and other materials. It is not
> recomended to soak carbon rubber or brake pads in it. But getting kerosene
> on these parts will not hurt it is rinsed off.
> > So for chain cleaning I now put kerosene in my chain cleaner, put it on
> the chain and after a couple of revolutions it is clean as new. I use a
> various brushes diped in kerosene to clean the cassette and chainrings.
> Once done I then rinse everything off with water, then of course re-oil.
> > One last thought about chains, I ride with sram red and thought I should
> go with the more expensive chains. the weight difference between an
> expensive sram chain and a cheep sram chain is pretty much no difference
> (30g?) The main difference is about $70 and metal material to prevent rust.
> well if you take care of your bike and ride 2000mi a year, your chain will
> stretch before it rusts...so I now save $70 a year and go with the cheaper
> sram chains.
> > If anyone has anythought to this please speek freely, this is how we all
> learn.
> >
> > -Stewart
> > _______________________________________________
> > OBRA mailing list
> > obra@list.obra.org
> > http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> > Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
> _______________________________________________
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> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>

Mike Richardson

Definitely agreed on cheaper chain. I'm a Brand S guy, but I've always run Ultegra chain and rear cogs. New chain once a year, can't go DA.

I'm old as well as old-school so I tried reusing the pin. Once. Came apart on the first big hill. And the next. Got it now.

Gotta try a cleaning tool -I still use a pop bottle of solvent.

Mike

On Sep 22, 2011, at 6:52 PM, Stewart Campbell wrote:

> I see the postings about chainlinks. I thought it was just me that couldn't open a sram 10sp chain link.
> Thanks for the info about using a KMC link.
> Here are some other thoughts about chains..
> I once read that evertime you use a chain tool, it slightly weakens the chain. Don't know if thats true but it makes sence. And that the pro team mechanics pretty much never take a chain off.
> I than thought to my self what about cleaning. My uncle is a long time motorcycle rider and he recomended using kerosene for greasy parts, I tried it...holly cow!!!!!! I did the research on various bike forums and everyone agrees that it is safe on all metal and other materials. It is not recomended to soak carbon rubber or brake pads in it. But getting kerosene on these parts will not hurt it is rinsed off.
> So for chain cleaning I now put kerosene in my chain cleaner, put it on the chain and after a couple of revolutions it is clean as new. I use a various brushes diped in kerosene to clean the cassette and chainrings. Once done I then rinse everything off with water, then of course re-oil.
> One last thought about chains, I ride with sram red and thought I should go with the more expensive chains. the weight difference between an expensive sram chain and a cheep sram chain is pretty much no difference (30g?) The main difference is about $70 and metal material to prevent rust. well if you take care of your bike and ride 2000mi a year, your chain will stretch before it rusts...so I now save $70 a year and go with the cheaper sram chains.
> If anyone has anythought to this please speek freely, this is how we all learn.
>
> -Stewart
> _______________________________________________
> OBRA mailing list
> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org

Michael Medina

I removed and reused my 10 speed SRAM master link only because I didn't know
I wasn't supposed to.

On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 7:02 PM, Ian Mastenbrook
wrote:

> Yes you absolutely can open the 10 speed SRAM PowerLOCK's. I do it all the
> time, just takes some technique to get it right. I lengthened my new CX
> chain too long, so I finally found out how to take it apart. It's not as
> easy as the gold 9sp PowerLinks, but it will save you from buying a new
> chain. I now have over 500 miles on my chain following putting the PowerLock
> back in, and can say that it still feels like a brand new chain.
>
> Made a video demonstrating the steps to share, I bet SRAM is pissed that I
> shared the secret with the public :)
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiXsOfZDdT0
>
>
>

Ian Mastenbrook

Yes you absolutely can open the 10 speed SRAM PowerLOCK's. I do it all the
time, just takes some technique to get it right. I lengthened my new CX
chain too long, so I finally found out how to take it apart. It's not as
easy as the gold 9sp PowerLinks, but it will save you from buying a new
chain. I now have over 500 miles on my chain following putting the PowerLock
back in, and can say that it still feels like a brand new chain.

Made a video demonstrating the steps to share, I bet SRAM is pissed that I
shared the secret with the public :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiXsOfZDdT0

On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 6:52 PM, Stewart Campbell
wrote:

> I see the postings about chainlinks. I thought it was just me that
> couldn't open a sram 10sp chain link.
> Thanks for the info about using a KMC link.
> Here are some other thoughts about chains..
> I once read that evertime you use a chain tool, it slightly weakens the
> chain. Don't know if thats true but it makes sence. And that the pro team
> mechanics pretty much never take a chain off.
> I than thought to my self what about cleaning. My uncle is a long time
> motorcycle rider and he recomended using kerosene for greasy parts, I tried
> it...holly cow!!!!!! I did the research on various bike forums and everyone
> agrees that it is safe on all metal and other materials. It is not
> recomended to soak carbon rubber or brake pads in it. But getting kerosene
> on these parts will not hurt it is rinsed off.
> So for chain cleaning I now put kerosene in my chain cleaner, put it on the
> chain and after a couple of revolutions it is clean as new. I use a various
> brushes diped in kerosene to clean the cassette and chainrings. Once done I
> then rinse everything off with water, then of course re-oil.
> One last thought about chains, I ride with sram red and thought I should go
> with the more expensive chains. the weight difference between an expensive
> sram chain and a cheep sram chain is pretty much no difference (30g?) The
> main difference is about $70 and metal material to prevent rust. well if
> you take care of your bike and ride 2000mi a year, your chain will stretch
> before it rusts...so I now save $70 a year and go with the cheaper sram
> chains.
> If anyone has anythought to this please speek freely, this is how we all
> learn.
>
> -Stewart
> _______________________________________________
> OBRA mailing list
> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>

--
*-Ian Mastenbrook*

Stewart Campbell

I see the postings about chainlinks. I thought it was just me that couldn't open a sram 10sp chain link.
Thanks for the info about using a KMC link.
Here are some other thoughts about chains..
I once read that evertime you use a chain tool, it slightly weakens the chain. Don't know if thats true but it makes sence. And that the pro team mechanics pretty much never take a chain off.
I than thought to my self what about cleaning. My uncle is a long time motorcycle rider and he recomended using kerosene for greasy parts, I tried it...holly cow!!!!!! I did the research on various bike forums and everyone agrees that it is safe on all metal and other materials. It is not recomended to soak carbon rubber or brake pads in it. But getting kerosene on these parts will not hurt it is rinsed off.
So for chain cleaning I now put kerosene in my chain cleaner, put it on the chain and after a couple of revolutions it is clean as new. I use a various brushes diped in kerosene to clean the cassette and chainrings. Once done I then rinse everything off with water, then of course re-oil.
One last thought about chains, I ride with sram red and thought I should go with the more expensive chains. the weight difference between an expensive sram chain and a cheep sram chain is pretty much no difference (30g?) The main difference is about $70 and metal material to prevent rust. well if you take care of your bike and ride 2000mi a year, your chain will stretch before it rusts...so I now save $70 a year and go with the cheaper sram chains.
If anyone has anythought to this please speek freely, this is how we all learn.

-Stewart