eric aldinger

Lastly, some hydraulic brakes can get air in the line if you flip your bike
upside down or store it hanging.Not sure how that happens in a closed
system. I assume the air was int the resevoir on top of the fluid and
migrates to the line. When this happens, I just wait for the air to move
its way back to the place from whence it came. You technically should bleed
the line.

On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 5:49 PM, wrote:

> *HA!*
> *This is funny. *
> *Looks like whatever he chooses will be the best and the worst. I agree
> these are the worst... and those are the best. Truth is they all work
> fine. This turns into a “mine is better” game. *
> *Enjoy your braking power whatever it is and if I pass you and beat you
> riding my mechanical or hydraulic disc brakes I can say I told you so! [image:
> Smile] *
> *The engine is way more important than the equipment.*
> *ron*
>
> *From:* Rob Burkhart
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 27, 2012 5:32 PM
> *To:* obra@list.obra.org
> *Subject:* Re: [OBRA Chat] dics brake questions
>
> I use rollercam brakes with the original cables and housing. They're
> very, very fast.
>
> > Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 17:17:10 -0700
> > From: don.person@gmail.com
> > To: jfw100@comcast.net
> > CC: obra@list.obra.org; stewartcycling@yahoo.com
> > Subject: Re: [OBRA Chat] dics brake questions
> >
> > I have been using BB7s since they came out in 2000, mostly with
> > dropbars on mtbs. Use full length housing and I might (MIGHT) need to
> > replace cables once a year.
> > No issues with power, modulation or general function.
> >
> > -shiggy
> >
> > On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 5:02 PM, John Wilson wrote:
> > > Hmmm, Cable operated disc?
> > >
> > > Hydraulic is the way to go. Bleed once and forget about'em. They just
> work!
> > > Replace pads once and a while. Hydraulic brakes are absolutely bomber
> for
> > > MTB.
> > >
> > > I was talking to the Kona CX mechanic at the Bend USGP. I asked him
> about
> > > discs on CX bikes and he went on and on about how he could not wait for
> > > hydraulic road/brake levers. Then he mentioned electronic shifting.
> That is
> > > what he was dreaming for. I bike without any cables. I can imagine that
> > > multiple bikes with grimy stretching cables and cable housing that
> needs to
> > > be replaced all the time is the bane of the pro bike mechanic.
> > >
> > > Go Hydraulic on your MTB.
> > >
> > > John Wilson
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: obra-bounces@list.obra.org [mailto:obra-bounces@list.obra.org]
> On
> > > Behalf Of Brian Johnson
> > > Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 1:25 PM
> > > To: obra@list.obra.org
> > > Cc: stewartcycling@yahoo.com
> > > Subject: Re: [OBRA Chat] dics brake questions
> > >
> > > I'll have to reiterate the recommendation that you give Avid BB7
> > > cable-actuated disc brakes a second consideration.
> > >
> > > I switched to the BB7 from Magura hydraulic disc brakes and found the
> BB7's
> > > to be just as responsive and every bit as powerful. They are VERY low
> > > maintenance with the added benefit of not ever having to deal with
> bleeding
> > > them and the rage-inducing task of eliminating air bubbles. I serviced
> the
> > > Magura's several times (not out of any service necessity but due to
> needing
> > > longer/shorter hoses, replacing levers and master cylinders) so I know
> about
> > > the special joys of dealing with hydraulic brakes.
> > >
> > > The BB7's are easy to set up, very powerful, modulate well, and easy to
> > > service. While it's true that "you get what you pay for" in the case
> of the
> > > BB7's I have gotten FAR more back in performance and time on the bike
> > > (that's time not spent servicing the brakes) than I paid. One of the
> true
> > > great values in bike componentry.
> > >
> > > And no, I dont' work for SRAM.
> > >
> > > -Brian J.
> > >
> > > * * *
> > > My father asks : "Do you live here or ride bikes?"
> > > http://liveorridebikes.blogspot.com
> > >
> > > My life as a Crossniac:
> > > www.crossniacs.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > OBRA mailing list
> > > obra@list.obra.org
> > > http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> > > Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > OBRA mailing list
> > > obra@list.obra.org
> > > http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> > > Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Don Person (shiggy)
> > http://mtbtires.com
> > http://titusti.com
> > http://shop.on-one-usa.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > OBRA mailing list
> > obra@list.obra.org
> > http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> > Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>
> ------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> OBRA mailing list
> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> OBRA mailing list
> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>
>

--
Eric Aldinger

rondot@spiritone.com

HA!
This is funny.
Looks like whatever he chooses will be the best and the worst. I agree these are the worst... and those are the best. Truth is they all work fine. This turns into a “mine is better” game.
Enjoy your braking power whatever it is and if I pass you and beat you riding my mechanical or hydraulic disc brakes I can say I told you so!
The engine is way more important than the equipment.
ron

From: Rob Burkhart
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 5:32 PM
To: obra@list.obra.org
Subject: Re: [OBRA Chat] dics brake questions

I use rollercam brakes with the original cables and housing. They're very, very fast.

> Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 17:17:10 -0700
> From: don.person@gmail.com
> To: jfw100@comcast.net
> CC: obra@list.obra.org; stewartcycling@yahoo.com
> Subject: Re: [OBRA Chat] dics brake questions
>
> I have been using BB7s since they came out in 2000, mostly with
> dropbars on mtbs. Use full length housing and I might (MIGHT) need to
> replace cables once a year.
> No issues with power, modulation or general function.
>
> -shiggy
>
> On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 5:02 PM, John Wilson wrote:
> > Hmmm, Cable operated disc?
> >
> > Hydraulic is the way to go. Bleed once and forget about'em. They just work!
> > Replace pads once and a while. Hydraulic brakes are absolutely bomber for
> > MTB.
> >
> > I was talking to the Kona CX mechanic at the Bend USGP. I asked him about
> > discs on CX bikes and he went on and on about how he could not wait for
> > hydraulic road/brake levers. Then he mentioned electronic shifting. That is
> > what he was dreaming for. I bike without any cables. I can imagine that
> > multiple bikes with grimy stretching cables and cable housing that needs to
> > be replaced all the time is the bane of the pro bike mechanic.
> >
> > Go Hydraulic on your MTB.
> >
> > John Wilson
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: obra-bounces@list.obra.org [mailto:obra-bounces@list.obra.org] On
> > Behalf Of Brian Johnson
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 1:25 PM
> > To: obra@list.obra.org
> > Cc: stewartcycling@yahoo.com
> > Subject: Re: [OBRA Chat] dics brake questions
> >
> > I'll have to reiterate the recommendation that you give Avid BB7
> > cable-actuated disc brakes a second consideration.
> >
> > I switched to the BB7 from Magura hydraulic disc brakes and found the BB7's
> > to be just as responsive and every bit as powerful. They are VERY low
> > maintenance with the added benefit of not ever having to deal with bleeding
> > them and the rage-inducing task of eliminating air bubbles. I serviced the
> > Magura's several times (not out of any service necessity but due to needing
> > longer/shorter hoses, replacing levers and master cylinders) so I know about
> > the special joys of dealing with hydraulic brakes.
> >
> > The BB7's are easy to set up, very powerful, modulate well, and easy to
> > service. While it's true that "you get what you pay for" in the case of the
> > BB7's I have gotten FAR more back in performance and time on the bike
> > (that's time not spent servicing the brakes) than I paid. One of the true
> > great values in bike componentry.
> >
> > And no, I dont' work for SRAM.
> >
> > -Brian J.
> >
> > * * *
> > My father asks : "Do you live here or ride bikes?"
> > http://liveorridebikes.blogspot.com
> >
> > My life as a Crossniac:
> > www.crossniacs.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > OBRA mailing list
> > obra@list.obra.org
> > http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> > Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > OBRA mailing list
> > obra@list.obra.org
> > http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> > Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>
>
>
> --
> Don Person (shiggy)
> http://mtbtires.com
> http://titusti.com
> http://shop.on-one-usa.com
> _______________________________________________
> OBRA mailing list
> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
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Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org

Shane Gibson

But to answer the question, yes - at least the SRAM BB5 and BB7 cable disc
brakes have a piston on one side which pushes (warps) the rotor over to the
other pad to stop. It's critical to keep the pads adjusted properly so you
don't have too much space between the non-actuated pad side.

I've been running both hydraulic (MTB) and mechanical (BB7 w/ SRAM Rival
road shifters for CX) for a while. I will completely disagree with several
statements made so far ...

* hydraulic do NOT need much maintenance - the bleeding process is a pain
in the butt if you do it yourself only rarely - but it's easy to figure out
and do on your own with a bleed kit - once bled - they generally last a
long time before needing to be bled again - longer than cables/housings
last for mechanical brakes, in my experience ... the process is no more
onerous to bleed brakes than to pull your cables, all of your housings, and
reset the pad contacts

* I constantly have to adjust my BB7s in CX to keep them vaguely quiet -
they're noisy as all get out, at least on my bike set up ... I raced 2 to 4
races a week last season - and I had to *at least* once a week adjust the
pad contact points - not a hard process - only takes a couple of minutes
tops once you get the procedure down - but it's still annoying

* I do not believe in the notion that mechanical are better on the trail
than hydraulic when it comes to technical issues ... in 15 years of using
disc brakes, I have never seen either mechanical or hydraulic disc brake
cables/housing fail in the field ... (not to say it doesn't occasionally
happen - but nobody carries spare housing and cables "just in case" on a
mechanical set up) ... sometimes air gets into the system (hydraulic) and
you get squishy performance on hydraulic, but mostly it's a matter of pad
contact point/adjustment and/or worn out pads on the trail - I always take
one set of spare pads in my seat repair bag ... no big deal ...

* modulation/control/feathering on mechanical are many many times better
than *any* rim brake I've ever run - however, I will ALWAYS run hydraulic
given the choice - hydraulic is again that much better ... on good quality
systems - I have not run off-brand or cheap versions of brakes - it's the
one area I will never skimp in - good brakes means fast safe riding

Note I'm a heavier rider (moo moo) ... and ride aggressively - so I may
overly stress my braking system - and hence I need to keep my mechanical
discs more frequently tuned. I can NOT wait until we have quality
hydraulic disc systems for CX (road drop setup) ... they are so vastly
superior to mechanical brakes - and anyone running rim brakes in CX is just
asking to go through a boat load of pads and rims on a regular basis, and
have crappy braking performance compared to what you could have. Just
sayin ... :)

In any case - you can't go wrong - they all have their pluses and minuses.
Just pick one and go with it, have fun enjoy your two wheeled experience!

~~shane

--
"Opportunities multiply as they are seized." - Sun Tzu

On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 5:22 PM, don person wrote:

> They do require occasional pad adjustment. Uneven pad wear is not an
> issue when setup properly.
>
> -shiggy
>
> On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 5:19 PM, wrote:
> > Don't the mechanical brakes only pull one side of the caliper causing
> uneven brake pad wear also?
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > On Mar 27, 2012, at 5:17 PM, don person wrote:
> >
> >> I have been using BB7s since they came out in 2000, mostly with
> >> dropbars on mtbs. Use full length housing and I might (MIGHT) need to
> >> replace cables once a year.
> >> No issues with power, modulation or general function.
> >>
> >> -shiggy
> >>
> >> On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 5:02 PM, John Wilson
> wrote:
> >>> Hmmm, Cable operated disc?
> >>>
> >>> Hydraulic is the way to go. Bleed once and forget about'em. They just
> work!
> >>> Replace pads once and a while. Hydraulic brakes are absolutely bomber
> for
> >>> MTB.
> >>>
> >>> I was talking to the Kona CX mechanic at the Bend USGP. I asked him
> about
> >>> discs on CX bikes and he went on and on about how he could not wait for
> >>> hydraulic road/brake levers. Then he mentioned electronic shifting.
> That is
> >>> what he was dreaming for. I bike without any cables. I can imagine that
> >>> multiple bikes with grimy stretching cables and cable housing that
> needs to
> >>> be replaced all the time is the bane of the pro bike mechanic.
> >>>
> >>> Go Hydraulic on your MTB.
> >>>
> >>> John Wilson
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: obra-bounces@list.obra.org [mailto:obra-bounces@list.obra.org]
> On
> >>> Behalf Of Brian Johnson
> >>> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 1:25 PM
> >>> To: obra@list.obra.org
> >>> Cc: stewartcycling@yahoo.com
> >>> Subject: Re: [OBRA Chat] dics brake questions
> >>>
> >>> I'll have to reiterate the recommendation that you give Avid BB7
> >>> cable-actuated disc brakes a second consideration.
> >>>
> >>> I switched to the BB7 from Magura hydraulic disc brakes and found the
> BB7's
> >>> to be just as responsive and every bit as powerful. They are VERY low
> >>> maintenance with the added benefit of not ever having to deal with
> bleeding
> >>> them and the rage-inducing task of eliminating air bubbles. I serviced
> the
> >>> Magura's several times (not out of any service necessity but due to
> needing
> >>> longer/shorter hoses, replacing levers and master cylinders) so I know
> about
> >>> the special joys of dealing with hydraulic brakes.
> >>>
> >>> The BB7's are easy to set up, very powerful, modulate well, and easy to
> >>> service. While it's true that "you get what you pay for" in the case
> of the
> >>> BB7's I have gotten FAR more back in performance and time on the bike
> >>> (that's time not spent servicing the brakes) than I paid. One of the
> true
> >>> great values in bike componentry.
> >>>
> >>> And no, I dont' work for SRAM.
> >>>
> >>> -Brian J.
> >>>
> >>> * * *
> >>> My father asks : "Do you live here or ride bikes?"
> >>> http://liveorridebikes.blogspot.com
> >>>
> >>> My life as a Crossniac:
> >>> www.crossniacs.com
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> OBRA mailing list
> >>> obra@list.obra.org
> >>> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> >>> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> OBRA mailing list
> >>> obra@list.obra.org
> >>> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> >>> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> Don Person (shiggy)
> >> http://mtbtires.com
> >> http://titusti.com
> >> http://shop.on-one-usa.com
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> OBRA mailing list
> >> obra@list.obra.org
> >> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> >> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>
>
>
> --
> Don Person (shiggy)
> http://mtbtires.com
> http://titusti.com
> http://shop.on-one-usa.com
> _______________________________________________
> OBRA mailing list
> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>

Rob Burkhart

I use rollercam brakes with the original cables and housing. They're very, very fast.

> Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 17:17:10 -0700
> From: don.person@gmail.com
> To: jfw100@comcast.net
> CC: obra@list.obra.org; stewartcycling@yahoo.com
> Subject: Re: [OBRA Chat] dics brake questions
>
> I have been using BB7s since they came out in 2000, mostly with
> dropbars on mtbs. Use full length housing and I might (MIGHT) need to
> replace cables once a year.
> No issues with power, modulation or general function.
>
> -shiggy
>
> On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 5:02 PM, John Wilson wrote:
> > Hmmm, Cable operated disc?
> >
> > Hydraulic is the way to go. Bleed once and forget about'em. They just work!
> > Replace pads once and a while. Hydraulic brakes are absolutely bomber for
> > MTB.
> >
> > I was talking to the Kona CX mechanic at the Bend USGP. I asked him about
> > discs on CX bikes and he went on and on about how he could not wait for
> > hydraulic road/brake levers. Then he mentioned electronic shifting. That is
> > what he was dreaming for. I bike without any cables. I can imagine that
> > multiple bikes with grimy stretching cables and cable housing that needs to
> > be replaced all the time is the bane of the pro bike mechanic.
> >
> > Go Hydraulic on your MTB.
> >
> > John Wilson
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: obra-bounces@list.obra.org [mailto:obra-bounces@list.obra.org] On
> > Behalf Of Brian Johnson
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 1:25 PM
> > To: obra@list.obra.org
> > Cc: stewartcycling@yahoo.com
> > Subject: Re: [OBRA Chat] dics brake questions
> >
> > I'll have to reiterate the recommendation that you give Avid BB7
> > cable-actuated disc brakes a second consideration.
> >
> > I switched to the BB7 from Magura hydraulic disc brakes and found the BB7's
> > to be just as responsive and every bit as powerful. They are VERY low
> > maintenance with the added benefit of not ever having to deal with bleeding
> > them and the rage-inducing task of eliminating air bubbles. I serviced the
> > Magura's several times (not out of any service necessity but due to needing
> > longer/shorter hoses, replacing levers and master cylinders) so I know about
> > the special joys of dealing with hydraulic brakes.
> >
> > The BB7's are easy to set up, very powerful, modulate well, and easy to
> > service. While it's true that "you get what you pay for" in the case of the
> > BB7's I have gotten FAR more back in performance and time on the bike
> > (that's time not spent servicing the brakes) than I paid. One of the true
> > great values in bike componentry.
> >
> > And no, I dont' work for SRAM.
> >
> > -Brian J.
> >
> > * * *
> > My father asks : "Do you live here or ride bikes?"
> > http://liveorridebikes.blogspot.com
> >
> > My life as a Crossniac:
> > www.crossniacs.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > OBRA mailing list
> > obra@list.obra.org
> > http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> > Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > OBRA mailing list
> > obra@list.obra.org
> > http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> > Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>
>
>
> --
> Don Person (shiggy)
> http://mtbtires.com
> http://titusti.com
> http://shop.on-one-usa.com
> _______________________________________________
> OBRA mailing list
> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org

don person

They do require occasional pad adjustment. Uneven pad wear is not an
issue when setup properly.

-shiggy

On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 5:19 PM, wrote:
> Don't the mechanical brakes only pull one side of the caliper causing uneven brake pad wear also?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 27, 2012, at 5:17 PM, don person wrote:
>
>> I have been using BB7s since they came out in 2000, mostly with
>> dropbars on mtbs. Use full length housing and I might (MIGHT) need to
>> replace cables once a year.
>> No issues with power, modulation or general function.
>>
>> -shiggy
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 5:02 PM, John Wilson wrote:
>>> Hmmm, Cable operated disc?
>>>
>>> Hydraulic is the way to go. Bleed once and forget about'em. They just work!
>>> Replace pads once and a while. Hydraulic brakes are absolutely bomber for
>>> MTB.
>>>
>>> I was talking to the Kona CX mechanic at the Bend USGP. I asked him about
>>> discs on CX bikes and he went on and on about how he could not wait for
>>> hydraulic road/brake levers. Then he mentioned electronic shifting. That is
>>> what he was dreaming for. I bike without any cables. I can imagine that
>>> multiple bikes with grimy stretching cables and cable housing that needs to
>>> be replaced all the time is the bane of the pro bike mechanic.
>>>
>>> Go Hydraulic on your MTB.
>>>
>>> John Wilson
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: obra-bounces@list.obra.org [mailto:obra-bounces@list.obra.org] On
>>> Behalf Of Brian Johnson
>>> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 1:25 PM
>>> To: obra@list.obra.org
>>> Cc: stewartcycling@yahoo.com
>>> Subject: Re: [OBRA Chat] dics brake questions
>>>
>>> I'll have to reiterate the recommendation that you give Avid BB7
>>> cable-actuated disc brakes a second consideration.
>>>
>>> I switched to the BB7 from Magura hydraulic disc brakes and found the BB7's
>>> to be just as responsive and every bit as powerful. They are VERY low
>>> maintenance with the added benefit of not ever having to deal with bleeding
>>> them and the rage-inducing task of eliminating air bubbles. I serviced the
>>> Magura's several times (not out of any service necessity but due to needing
>>> longer/shorter hoses, replacing levers and master cylinders) so I know about
>>> the special joys of dealing with hydraulic brakes.
>>>
>>> The BB7's are easy to set up, very powerful, modulate well, and easy to
>>> service. While it's true that "you get what you pay for" in the case of the
>>> BB7's I have gotten FAR more back in performance and time on the bike
>>> (that's time not spent servicing the brakes) than I paid. One of the true
>>> great values in bike componentry.
>>>
>>> And no, I dont' work for SRAM.
>>>
>>> -Brian J.
>>>
>>> * * *
>>> My father asks : "Do you live here or ride bikes?"
>>> http://liveorridebikes.blogspot.com
>>>
>>> My life as a Crossniac:
>>> www.crossniacs.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> OBRA mailing list
>>> obra@list.obra.org
>>> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
>>> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> OBRA mailing list
>>> obra@list.obra.org
>>> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
>>> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Don Person (shiggy)
>> http://mtbtires.com
>> http://titusti.com
>> http://shop.on-one-usa.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> OBRA mailing list
>> obra@list.obra.org
>> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
>> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org

--
Don Person (shiggy)
http://mtbtires.com
http://titusti.com
http://shop.on-one-usa.com

don person

Twelve years of using cable discs in all conditions and I have NEVER
had the brakes freeze up.

-higgy

On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 5:16 PM, Rick Johnson wrote:
> Yea, here's another related reason why cable actuated brakes are inferior. .
> I rode my bike in the wet one day and some water got in the rear brake cable
> housing. This was in the Fall and a few days later we did a ride to the top
> of a local mountain (near 9000ft elevation). At the top the mountain was a
> foggy and very cold. The water froze so that on the descent the first time I
> used by rear brake it locked my brake solid.
>
> So my routine went:
> Descend as far as possible using only the front brake, then skid to a stop.
> Dismount and pry the brake back open.
> Descend again as far as possible using only the front brake, then skid to a
> stop.
> Dismount and pry the brake back open.
> Repeat.
> Repeat.
>
> Needless to say this isn't a problem with hydraulics.
>
> Rick Johnson
> Bend, Oregon
>
> Every revolutionary idea seems to evoke three stages of reaction...
> One, it's completely impossible.
> Two, it's possible, but it's not worth doing.
> Three, I said it was a good idea all along.
>
> Arthur C. Clarke
>
>
>
> On 3/27/2012 5:02 PM, John Wilson wrote:
>>
>> Hmmm, Cable operated disc?
>>
>> Hydraulic is the way to go. Bleed once and forget about'em. They just
>> work!
>> Replace pads once and a while. Hydraulic brakes are absolutely bomber for
>> MTB.
>>
>> I was talking to the Kona CX mechanic at the Bend USGP. I asked him about
>> discs on CX bikes and he went on and on about how he could not wait for
>> hydraulic road/brake levers. Then he mentioned electronic shifting. That
>> is
>> what he was dreaming for. I bike without any cables. I can imagine that
>> multiple bikes with grimy stretching cables and cable housing that needs
>> to
>> be replaced all the time is the bane of the pro bike mechanic.
>>
>> Go Hydraulic on your MTB.
>>
>> John Wilson
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: obra-bounces@list.obra.org [mailto:obra-bounces@list.obra.org] On
>> Behalf Of Brian Johnson
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 1:25 PM
>> To: obra@list.obra.org
>> Cc: stewartcycling@yahoo.com
>> Subject: Re: [OBRA Chat] dics brake questions
>>
>> I'll have to reiterate the recommendation that you give Avid BB7
>> cable-actuated disc brakes a second consideration.
>>
>> I switched to the BB7 from Magura hydraulic disc brakes and found the
>> BB7's
>> to be just as responsive and every bit as powerful. They are VERY low
>> maintenance with the added benefit of not ever having to deal with
>> bleeding
>> them and the rage-inducing task of eliminating air bubbles. I serviced the
>> Magura's several times (not out of any service necessity but due to
>> needing
>> longer/shorter hoses, replacing levers and master cylinders) so I know
>> about
>> the special joys of dealing with hydraulic brakes.
>>
>> The BB7's are easy to set up, very powerful, modulate well, and easy to
>> service. While it's true that "you get what you pay for" in the case of
>> the
>> BB7's I have gotten FAR more back in performance and time on the bike
>> (that's time not spent servicing the brakes) than I paid. One of the true
>> great values in bike componentry.
>>
>> And no, I dont' work for SRAM.
>>
>> -Brian J.
>>
>> * * *
>> My father asks : "Do you live here or ride bikes?"
>> http://liveorridebikes.blogspot.com
>>
>> My life as a Crossniac:
>> www.crossniacs.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> OBRA mailing list
>> obra@list.obra.org
>> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
>> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> OBRA mailing list
>> obra@list.obra.org
>> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
>> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> OBRA mailing list
> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org

--
Don Person (shiggy)
http://mtbtires.com
http://titusti.com
http://shop.on-one-usa.com

grantcollins@ymail.com

Don't the mechanical brakes only pull one side of the caliper causing uneven brake pad wear also?

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 27, 2012, at 5:17 PM, don person wrote:

> I have been using BB7s since they came out in 2000, mostly with
> dropbars on mtbs. Use full length housing and I might (MIGHT) need to
> replace cables once a year.
> No issues with power, modulation or general function.
>
> -shiggy
>
> On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 5:02 PM, John Wilson wrote:
>> Hmmm, Cable operated disc?
>>
>> Hydraulic is the way to go. Bleed once and forget about'em. They just work!
>> Replace pads once and a while. Hydraulic brakes are absolutely bomber for
>> MTB.
>>
>> I was talking to the Kona CX mechanic at the Bend USGP. I asked him about
>> discs on CX bikes and he went on and on about how he could not wait for
>> hydraulic road/brake levers. Then he mentioned electronic shifting. That is
>> what he was dreaming for. I bike without any cables. I can imagine that
>> multiple bikes with grimy stretching cables and cable housing that needs to
>> be replaced all the time is the bane of the pro bike mechanic.
>>
>> Go Hydraulic on your MTB.
>>
>> John Wilson
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: obra-bounces@list.obra.org [mailto:obra-bounces@list.obra.org] On
>> Behalf Of Brian Johnson
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 1:25 PM
>> To: obra@list.obra.org
>> Cc: stewartcycling@yahoo.com
>> Subject: Re: [OBRA Chat] dics brake questions
>>
>> I'll have to reiterate the recommendation that you give Avid BB7
>> cable-actuated disc brakes a second consideration.
>>
>> I switched to the BB7 from Magura hydraulic disc brakes and found the BB7's
>> to be just as responsive and every bit as powerful. They are VERY low
>> maintenance with the added benefit of not ever having to deal with bleeding
>> them and the rage-inducing task of eliminating air bubbles. I serviced the
>> Magura's several times (not out of any service necessity but due to needing
>> longer/shorter hoses, replacing levers and master cylinders) so I know about
>> the special joys of dealing with hydraulic brakes.
>>
>> The BB7's are easy to set up, very powerful, modulate well, and easy to
>> service. While it's true that "you get what you pay for" in the case of the
>> BB7's I have gotten FAR more back in performance and time on the bike
>> (that's time not spent servicing the brakes) than I paid. One of the true
>> great values in bike componentry.
>>
>> And no, I dont' work for SRAM.
>>
>> -Brian J.
>>
>> * * *
>> My father asks : "Do you live here or ride bikes?"
>> http://liveorridebikes.blogspot.com
>>
>> My life as a Crossniac:
>> www.crossniacs.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> OBRA mailing list
>> obra@list.obra.org
>> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
>> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> OBRA mailing list
>> obra@list.obra.org
>> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
>> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>
>
>
> --
> Don Person (shiggy)
> http://mtbtires.com
> http://titusti.com
> http://shop.on-one-usa.com
> _______________________________________________
> OBRA mailing list
> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org

don person

I have been using BB7s since they came out in 2000, mostly with
dropbars on mtbs. Use full length housing and I might (MIGHT) need to
replace cables once a year.
No issues with power, modulation or general function.

-shiggy

On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 5:02 PM, John Wilson wrote:
> Hmmm, Cable operated disc?
>
> Hydraulic is the way to go. Bleed once and forget about'em. They just work!
> Replace pads once and a while. Hydraulic brakes are absolutely bomber for
> MTB.
>
> I was talking to the Kona CX mechanic at the Bend USGP. I asked him about
> discs on CX bikes and he went on and on about how he could not wait for
> hydraulic road/brake levers. Then he mentioned electronic shifting. That is
> what he was dreaming for. I bike without any cables. I can imagine that
> multiple bikes with grimy stretching cables and cable housing that needs to
> be replaced all the time is the bane of the pro bike mechanic.
>
> Go Hydraulic on your MTB.
>
> John Wilson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: obra-bounces@list.obra.org [mailto:obra-bounces@list.obra.org] On
> Behalf Of Brian Johnson
> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 1:25 PM
> To: obra@list.obra.org
> Cc: stewartcycling@yahoo.com
> Subject: Re: [OBRA Chat] dics brake questions
>
> I'll have to reiterate the recommendation that you give Avid BB7
> cable-actuated disc brakes a second consideration.
>
> I switched to the BB7 from Magura hydraulic disc brakes and found the BB7's
> to be just as responsive and every bit as powerful. They are VERY low
> maintenance with the added benefit of not ever having to deal with bleeding
> them and the rage-inducing task of eliminating air bubbles. I serviced the
> Magura's several times (not out of any service necessity but due to needing
> longer/shorter hoses, replacing levers and master cylinders) so I know about
> the special joys of dealing with hydraulic brakes.
>
> The BB7's are easy to set up, very powerful, modulate well, and easy to
> service. While it's true that "you get what you pay for" in the case of the
> BB7's I have gotten FAR more back in performance and time on the bike
> (that's time not spent servicing the brakes) than I paid. One of the true
> great values in bike componentry.
>
> And no, I dont' work for SRAM.
>
> -Brian J.
>
> * * *
> My father asks : "Do you live here or ride bikes?"
> http://liveorridebikes.blogspot.com
>
> My life as a Crossniac:
> www.crossniacs.com
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> OBRA mailing list
> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> OBRA mailing list
> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org

--
Don Person (shiggy)
http://mtbtires.com
http://titusti.com
http://shop.on-one-usa.com

Rick Johnson

Yea, here's another related reason why cable actuated brakes are
inferior. . I rode my bike in the wet one day and some water got in the
rear brake cable housing. This was in the Fall and a few days later we
did a ride to the top of a local mountain (near 9000ft elevation). At
the top the mountain was a foggy and very cold. The water froze so that
on the descent the first time I used by rear brake it locked my brake
solid.

So my routine went:
Descend as far as possible using only the front brake, then skid to a stop.
Dismount and pry the brake back open.
Descend again as far as possible using only the front brake, then skid
to a stop.
Dismount and pry the brake back open.
Repeat.
Repeat.

Needless to say this isn't a problem with hydraulics.

Rick Johnson
Bend, Oregon

Every revolutionary idea seems to evoke three stages of reaction...
One, it's completely impossible.
Two, it's possible, but it's not worth doing.
Three, I said it was a good idea all along.

Arthur C. Clarke

On 3/27/2012 5:02 PM, John Wilson wrote:
> Hmmm, Cable operated disc?
>
> Hydraulic is the way to go. Bleed once and forget about'em. They just work!
> Replace pads once and a while. Hydraulic brakes are absolutely bomber for
> MTB.
>
> I was talking to the Kona CX mechanic at the Bend USGP. I asked him about
> discs on CX bikes and he went on and on about how he could not wait for
> hydraulic road/brake levers. Then he mentioned electronic shifting. That is
> what he was dreaming for. I bike without any cables. I can imagine that
> multiple bikes with grimy stretching cables and cable housing that needs to
> be replaced all the time is the bane of the pro bike mechanic.
>
> Go Hydraulic on your MTB.
>
> John Wilson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: obra-bounces@list.obra.org [mailto:obra-bounces@list.obra.org] On
> Behalf Of Brian Johnson
> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 1:25 PM
> To: obra@list.obra.org
> Cc: stewartcycling@yahoo.com
> Subject: Re: [OBRA Chat] dics brake questions
>
> I'll have to reiterate the recommendation that you give Avid BB7
> cable-actuated disc brakes a second consideration.
>
> I switched to the BB7 from Magura hydraulic disc brakes and found the BB7's
> to be just as responsive and every bit as powerful. They are VERY low
> maintenance with the added benefit of not ever having to deal with bleeding
> them and the rage-inducing task of eliminating air bubbles. I serviced the
> Magura's several times (not out of any service necessity but due to needing
> longer/shorter hoses, replacing levers and master cylinders) so I know about
> the special joys of dealing with hydraulic brakes.
>
> The BB7's are easy to set up, very powerful, modulate well, and easy to
> service. While it's true that "you get what you pay for" in the case of the
> BB7's I have gotten FAR more back in performance and time on the bike
> (that's time not spent servicing the brakes) than I paid. One of the true
> great values in bike componentry.
>
> And no, I dont' work for SRAM.
>
> -Brian J.
>
> * * *
> My father asks : "Do you live here or ride bikes?"
> http://liveorridebikes.blogspot.com
>
> My life as a Crossniac:
> www.crossniacs.com
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> OBRA mailing list
> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> OBRA mailing list
> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>

John Wilson

Hmmm, Cable operated disc?

Hydraulic is the way to go. Bleed once and forget about'em. They just work!
Replace pads once and a while. Hydraulic brakes are absolutely bomber for
MTB.

I was talking to the Kona CX mechanic at the Bend USGP. I asked him about
discs on CX bikes and he went on and on about how he could not wait for
hydraulic road/brake levers. Then he mentioned electronic shifting. That is
what he was dreaming for. I bike without any cables. I can imagine that
multiple bikes with grimy stretching cables and cable housing that needs to
be replaced all the time is the bane of the pro bike mechanic.

Go Hydraulic on your MTB.

John Wilson

-----Original Message-----
From: obra-bounces@list.obra.org [mailto:obra-bounces@list.obra.org] On
Behalf Of Brian Johnson
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 1:25 PM
To: obra@list.obra.org
Cc: stewartcycling@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [OBRA Chat] dics brake questions

I'll have to reiterate the recommendation that you give Avid BB7
cable-actuated disc brakes a second consideration.

I switched to the BB7 from Magura hydraulic disc brakes and found the BB7's
to be just as responsive and every bit as powerful. They are VERY low
maintenance with the added benefit of not ever having to deal with bleeding
them and the rage-inducing task of eliminating air bubbles. I serviced the
Magura's several times (not out of any service necessity but due to needing
longer/shorter hoses, replacing levers and master cylinders) so I know about
the special joys of dealing with hydraulic brakes.

The BB7's are easy to set up, very powerful, modulate well, and easy to
service. While it's true that "you get what you pay for" in the case of the
BB7's I have gotten FAR more back in performance and time on the bike
(that's time not spent servicing the brakes) than I paid. One of the true
great values in bike componentry.

And no, I dont' work for SRAM.

-Brian J.

* * *
My father asks : "Do you live here or ride bikes?"
http://liveorridebikes.blogspot.com

My life as a Crossniac:
www.crossniacs.com

_______________________________________________
OBRA mailing list
obra@list.obra.org
http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org

eric aldinger

I ride Avid Elixers, Juicy 7s, and BB7s currently, and prefer them in that
order. The maintenance is MUCH easier on the BB7, but modulation is much
more consistent when using a fluid medium for actuation. The BB7s weigh
more than most other brakes, if that is a concern. I do prefer the BB7 over
cheap hydros like the Hayes Stoker (which I have a pair to give to anyone
that wants to try and fix the front piston).

On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 1:24 PM, Brian Johnson wrote:

> I'll have to reiterate the recommendation that you give Avid BB7
> cable-actuated disc brakes a second consideration.
>
> I switched to the BB7 from Magura hydraulic disc brakes and found the
> BB7's to be just as responsive and every bit as powerful. They are VERY low
> maintenance with the added benefit of not ever having to deal with bleeding
> them and the rage-inducing task of eliminating air bubbles. I serviced the
> Magura's several times (not out of any service necessity but due to needing
> longer/shorter hoses, replacing levers and master cylinders) so I know
> about the special joys of dealing with hydraulic brakes.
>
> The BB7's are easy to set up, very powerful, modulate well, and easy to
> service. While it's true that "you get what you pay for" in the case of the
> BB7's I have gotten FAR more back in performance and time on the bike
> (that's time not spent servicing the brakes) than I paid. One of the true
> great values in bike componentry.
>
> And no, I dont' work for SRAM.
>
> -Brian J.
>
> * * *
> My father asks : "Do you live here or ride bikes?"
> http://liveorridebikes.blogspot.com
>
> My life as a Crossniac:
> www.crossniacs.com
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> OBRA mailing list
> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>

--
Eric Aldinger

Brian Johnson

I'll have to reiterate the recommendation that you give Avid BB7 cable-actuated disc brakes a second consideration.

I switched to the BB7 from Magura hydraulic disc brakes and found the BB7's to be just as responsive and every bit as powerful. They are VERY low maintenance with the added benefit of not ever having to deal with bleeding them and the rage-inducing task of eliminating air bubbles. I serviced the Magura's several times (not out of any service necessity but due to needing longer/shorter hoses, replacing levers and master cylinders) so I know about the special joys of dealing with hydraulic brakes.

The BB7's are easy to set up, very powerful, modulate well, and easy to service. While it's true that "you get what you pay for" in the case of the BB7's I have gotten FAR more back in performance and time on the bike (that's time not spent servicing the brakes) than I paid. One of the true great values in bike componentry.

And no, I dont' work for SRAM.

-Brian J.

* * *
My father asks : "Do you live here or ride bikes?"
http://liveorridebikes.blogspot.com

My life as a Crossniac:
www.crossniacs.com

eric aldinger

All I have to add to this is do not do a deep creek crossing after a long
decent or your rotors may warp. Do clean your pads and rotors regularly to
prevent noise and brake fade. I use 70% Isopropal alcohol and a very clean
rag for the rotors and a green kitchen scrub pad for the pads.

On Mon, Mar 26, 2012 at 7:12 PM, wrote:

> Stewart,
> Almost all people are going to tell you fantastic things about hydraulic
> disc brakes. I have some Shimano XT's on my full suspension bike, and I
> have to admit I like them a great deal now that I am used to riding with
> them. BUT..........I think Avid mechanical disc breaks are a great choice.
> You can adjust them and work on them easily. They make road brakes seem
> like some sort of jigsaw puzzle. I do not especially agree with Rick with
> regard to his view of the brakes. He probably has much more experience
> than I do however, so I suggest his view carry more weight than mine. My
> view about the mechanical avids is you can adjust them to where you hardly
> ever skid, but that is my experience. I think the tearing up of trail by
> locking up the brakes is more about people riding out of control in the
> first place. I know racing is about being on the edge somewhat, but it is
> also about riding smart. If you keep your bike under control, you hardly
> ever have to skid and can still move very efficiently (even with mechanical
> brakes). Just my point of view. My XTs are nice, but if they break down on
> me out on a long ride or in a race, their function is pretty much toast. A
> brake cable is much more easy to carry than a container of brake fluid and
> housing for the fluid. I am also not a fan of how the brake pads will
> close if you touch the brake lever when the wheel is removed. The solution
> is to have plastic sleeves to place between the pads when the wheel is off.
> Not an issue with the Avid mech.
> Have fun out there. Welcome back to the dirt and remember.... Mud is
> overall much more hygienic than wet or even dry road grime / soot. It is
> "of the earth" instead of the equivalent of the goop you get when wet
> sanding or in your case..........pressure washing!
> ronnie
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Rick Johnson
> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2012 5:51 PM
> To: Stewart Campbell
> Cc: OBRA
> Subject: Re: [OBRA Chat] dics brake questions
>
>
> Disc brakes are a "you get what you pay for" deal. And what you get with
> the more expensive hydraulics is mostly smooth controllable modulation.
> All the cheap brakes have the control of a light switch (they have two
> positions - coast and skid) and I curse them for all eternity for the
> trail damage they do. I went through several different types, and even
> switched back to V-brakes for a while, before I finally got something
> that allowed me to have great control at the threshold of skidding.
>
> Bigger rotors help with better modulation, more ultimate braking power,
> more mass for heat absorption and more surface area for heat
> dissipation. All of those things become important the bigger you and the
> terrain get.
>
> Rick
>
> Rick Johnson
> Bend Oregon
>
> * * *
>
> This news has been sanitized for your preconceptions
>
>
>
> On 3/26/2012 5:35 PM, Stewart Campbell wrote:
>
>> Don't y'all love all my newbie questions? I know way to much info about
>> road but noting about mountain.
>>
>> So what about hydraulic disc brakes. Here's the catch...cheep! Like $300
>> for a front and rear.
>> I've done a bit of research already and Avid keeps popping up.
>> Also what's the deal with rotor size? My bike came with 160mm mechanical.
>> Keep in mind I'm a lightweight on a 26 hardtail and prefer xc.
>>
>> Oh yea, thanks for the info on NW trail alliance and scappoose area. I
>> never made it there today but I did atleast ride to Powell Butte and played
>> around for awhile. I'm still not giving up my TT racing, but I think that
>> I've refound a passion that I had in my twenties for dirt!!!
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Stewart
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> OBRA mailing list
>> obra@list.obra.org
>> http://list.obra.org/mailman/**listinfo/obra
>> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
> OBRA mailing list
> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/**listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>
> ______________________________**_________________
> OBRA mailing list
> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/**listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
>

--
Eric Aldinger

rondot@spiritone.com

Stewart,
Almost all people are going to tell you fantastic things about hydraulic
disc brakes. I have some Shimano XT's on my full suspension bike, and I
have to admit I like them a great deal now that I am used to riding with
them. BUT..........I think Avid mechanical disc breaks are a great choice.
You can adjust them and work on them easily. They make road brakes seem
like some sort of jigsaw puzzle. I do not especially agree with Rick with
regard to his view of the brakes. He probably has much more experience than
I do however, so I suggest his view carry more weight than mine. My view
about the mechanical avids is you can adjust them to where you hardly ever
skid, but that is my experience. I think the tearing up of trail by locking
up the brakes is more about people riding out of control in the first place.
I know racing is about being on the edge somewhat, but it is also about
riding smart. If you keep your bike under control, you hardly ever have to
skid and can still move very efficiently (even with mechanical brakes).
Just my point of view. My XTs are nice, but if they break down on me out on
a long ride or in a race, their function is pretty much toast. A brake
cable is much more easy to carry than a container of brake fluid and housing
for the fluid. I am also not a fan of how the brake pads will close if you
touch the brake lever when the wheel is removed. The solution is to have
plastic sleeves to place between the pads when the wheel is off. Not an
issue with the Avid mech.
Have fun out there. Welcome back to the dirt and remember.... Mud is
overall much more hygienic than wet or even dry road grime / soot. It is
"of the earth" instead of the equivalent of the goop you get when wet
sanding or in your case..........pressure washing!
ronnie

-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Johnson
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2012 5:51 PM
To: Stewart Campbell
Cc: OBRA
Subject: Re: [OBRA Chat] dics brake questions

Disc brakes are a "you get what you pay for" deal. And what you get with
the more expensive hydraulics is mostly smooth controllable modulation.
All the cheap brakes have the control of a light switch (they have two
positions - coast and skid) and I curse them for all eternity for the
trail damage they do. I went through several different types, and even
switched back to V-brakes for a while, before I finally got something
that allowed me to have great control at the threshold of skidding.

Bigger rotors help with better modulation, more ultimate braking power,
more mass for heat absorption and more surface area for heat
dissipation. All of those things become important the bigger you and the
terrain get.

Rick

Rick Johnson
Bend Oregon

* * *

This news has been sanitized for your preconceptions

On 3/26/2012 5:35 PM, Stewart Campbell wrote:
> Don't y'all love all my newbie questions? I know way to much info about
> road but noting about mountain.
>
> So what about hydraulic disc brakes. Here's the catch...cheep! Like $300
> for a front and rear.
> I've done a bit of research already and Avid keeps popping up.
> Also what's the deal with rotor size? My bike came with 160mm mechanical.
> Keep in mind I'm a lightweight on a 26 hardtail and prefer xc.
>
> Oh yea, thanks for the info on NW trail alliance and scappoose area. I
> never made it there today but I did atleast ride to Powell Butte and
> played around for awhile. I'm still not giving up my TT racing, but I
> think that I've refound a passion that I had in my twenties for dirt!!!
>
> Thanks,
> Stewart
> _______________________________________________
> OBRA mailing list
> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org
_______________________________________________
OBRA mailing list
obra@list.obra.org
http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org

Rick Johnson

Disc brakes are a "you get what you pay for" deal. And what you get with
the more expensive hydraulics is mostly smooth controllable modulation.
All the cheap brakes have the control of a light switch (they have two
positions - coast and skid) and I curse them for all eternity for the
trail damage they do. I went through several different types, and even
switched back to V-brakes for a while, before I finally got something
that allowed me to have great control at the threshold of skidding.

Bigger rotors help with better modulation, more ultimate braking power,
more mass for heat absorption and more surface area for heat
dissipation. All of those things become important the bigger you and the
terrain get.

Rick

Rick Johnson
Bend Oregon

* * *

This news has been sanitized for your preconceptions

On 3/26/2012 5:35 PM, Stewart Campbell wrote:
> Don't y'all love all my newbie questions? I know way to much info about road but noting about mountain.
>
> So what about hydraulic disc brakes. Here's the catch...cheep! Like $300 for a front and rear.
> I've done a bit of research already and Avid keeps popping up.
> Also what's the deal with rotor size? My bike came with 160mm mechanical.
> Keep in mind I'm a lightweight on a 26 hardtail and prefer xc.
>
> Oh yea, thanks for the info on NW trail alliance and scappoose area. I never made it there today but I did atleast ride to Powell Butte and played around for awhile. I'm still not giving up my TT racing, but I think that I've refound a passion that I had in my twenties for dirt!!!
>
> Thanks,
> Stewart
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Stewart Campbell

Don't y'all love all my newbie questions? I know way to much info about road but noting about mountain.

So what about hydraulic disc brakes. Here's the catch...cheep! Like $300 for a front and rear.
I've done a bit of research already and Avid keeps popping up.
Also what's the deal with rotor size? My bike came with 160mm mechanical.
Keep in mind I'm a lightweight on a 26 hardtail and prefer xc.

Oh yea, thanks for the info on NW trail alliance and scappoose area. I never made it there today but I did atleast ride to Powell Butte and played around for awhile. I'm still not giving up my TT racing, but I think that I've refound a passion that I had in my twenties for dirt!!!

Thanks,
Stewart