'cross brake question

Rick Johnson

2012-04-17

John,
Just one little thing to note, in response to the linear pull
preposition originally I said "We'll have hydraulic road brakes long
before that happens..."
That doesn't mean a disc is required necessarily.

Products like this may be the future preference for many:
http://www.gizmag.com/magura-rt8-tt-hydraulic-road-bike-brakes/21151/

Rick

Rick Johnson
Bend Oregon

* * *

This news has been sanitized for your preconceptions

On 4/17/2012 8:36 AM, john wrote:
> I guess what i meant is that it is doubtful that Road disc will have
> much of a market, in most parts of the US... Now I may be the first
> line to buy some... (commutting in the gritty streets of portland and
> trying to simplify reduce my bicycles and wheels) . And i may be
> wrong, i can see carbon rims being a nice market..
> Ron, yes for MTBs or cross or dirty gritty conditions disc is nice.
> But they certainly aren't the end all especially for commutter or road
> (as they are designed right now) And MHO and experience, _can be_
> downright dangerous. Just a warning. Especially if one trys to
> adjust out any sort of rub (break-in and full speed practice stops are
> highly reccomended). A crash or car or a pedestrian and you need to
> stop _right now_. Modulation is great, but not in those situations.
> A bike setup properly with rim brakes (aka as a 622 disc:) and
> koolstop salmons can literally be stood on end if need be. Not so
> with a 160/180 disc. I am talking 240 lbs (my commutter bike is
> _heavy_..) .. 29er..
> Yes BB7 roads work. I use them every day. I love the fact that I am
> not wearing out rims. .
> But now you know why technically V-brakes / linear pull brakes are
> Superior to cantis/ road pull levers. And this is not opionion, but
> Mother Nature (aka Physics) talking (I am just a messanger).
> If you followed anything I said, you will also now understand why a
> Travel Agent works better if they are installed up near the lever.
> but I definitely agree that any device in the cable path is a pain.
> Its why I went with BB7 road , and they work, but not ideal.
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 8:51 PM, don person > wrote:
>
> John,
>
> SRAM has production hydro road disc brakes coming in a few months.
>
> There is nothing wrong with BB7 Road calipers and road STI levers.
> I have been running them on my mtbs since the road caliper came
> out. I like the performance better than the BB7 mtn caliper and
> long pull levers. Have never had issues with the levers bottoming.
> PLENTY of power with the modulation (I prefer not to fit over the
> bars). Quiet 98% of the time, too.
>
> I would also take cantis any day over any brake with a Travel
> Agent. Was never able to get the TAs to hold adjustment for an
> entire ride. Just not worth the trouble.
>
> -shiggy
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> OBRA mailing list
> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org


I guess what i meant is that it is doubtful that Road disc will have much
of a market, in most parts of the US... Now I may be the first line to
buy some... (commutting in the gritty streets of portland and trying to
simplify reduce my bicycles and wheels) . And i may be wrong, i can see
carbon rims being a nice market..

Ron, yes for MTBs or cross or dirty gritty conditions disc is nice. But
they certainly aren't the end all especially for commutter or road (as they
are designed right now) And MHO and experience, _can be_ downright
dangerous. Just a warning. Especially if one trys to adjust out any sort
of rub (break-in and full speed practice stops are highly reccomended). A
crash or car or a pedestrian and you need to stop _right now_. Modulation
is great, but not in those situations.

A bike setup properly with rim brakes (aka as a 622 disc:) and koolstop
salmons can literally be stood on end if need be. Not so with a 160/180
disc. I am talking 240 lbs (my commutter bike is _heavy_..) .. 29er..
Yes BB7 roads work. I use them every day. I love the fact that I am not
wearing out rims. .

But now you know why technically V-brakes / linear pull brakes are
Superior to cantis/ road pull levers. And this is not opionion, but
Mother Nature (aka Physics) talking (I am just a messanger).

If you followed anything I said, you will also now understand why a Travel
Agent works better if they are installed up near the lever.

but I definitely agree that any device in the cable path is a pain.
Its why I went with BB7 road , and they work, but not ideal.

On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 8:51 PM, don person wrote:

> John,
>
> SRAM has production hydro road disc brakes coming in a few months.
>
> There is nothing wrong with BB7 Road calipers and road STI levers. I have
> been running them on my mtbs since the road caliper came out. I like the
> performance better than the BB7 mtn caliper and long pull levers. Have
> never had issues with the levers bottoming. PLENTY of power with the
> modulation (I prefer not to fit over the bars). Quiet 98% of the time, too.
>
> I would also take cantis any day over any brake with a Travel Agent. Was
> never able to get the TAs to hold adjustment for an entire ride. Just not
> worth the trouble.
>
> -shiggy
>
>
>


rondot@spiritone.com

2012-04-17

Thank you Don. Although I am not a bike mechanic, I have been riding bikes for a very long time with all sorts of brakes (I remember the being thrown forward by my pedals trying to brake as well as the first mtb cables that looked like logging cable). When dry, well adjusted rim brakes (most designs / of good quality construction, installation and maintenance) are super stoppers. Also you can take a canti brake fork that is shuddering and stop the shudder with an install of the old horseshoe shaped stabilizer that bolts onto canti bosses. It works. But I have to say well designed, installed and maintained disc brakes are just amazing. I have just spent another winter riding in all sorts of conditions using mostly disc brakes. In my opinion the disc brake not only slows and stops better than rim brakes, but is so consistent compared to rim brakes, safe bike operation is greatly enhanced. I knew SRAM had the Hydro road disc coming and was not surprised when I heard it. I personally believe it will not be that many years when there will be more bikes equipped with disc brakes produced than with rim brakes. Like any technology, it is expensive at first, but as time goes on, the production costs come down so more people have access.
For something like Road racing or Cross the difference between a wheel with rim or disc brakes will become a non issue as most racers at the pro level either have another bike available if there is a problem or a mechanic that is so well trained a wheel can be changed in seconds.
I could say my old 57 Chevy was such a great car because of the overall design or I could do all the maintenance. That would just be my opinion and not have that much to do with fact. Looking at that car now, it may look cute, but is also a very inefficient machine compared to modern vehicles.
Disc brakes are one of the best additions to bicycles I have experienced in my life. They are an example of how mtb technology via motorcycles has moved toward road bikes as have the tapered head tube. The great thing about Avid mechanical is they might be considered toward the low end of the disc gene pool, but they are like the old Chevy in one important respect. They are competitively priced as well as easy to install, adjust and maintain. Even if hydraulic disc brakes on road / cross bikes become common, mechanical will (in my opinion) the brake of the masses. Disc brakes have already changed rim design. Nothing stays the same. Including the fact that rim brakes do work.
ron

From: don person
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2012 8:51 PM
To: john
Cc: OBRA remailer
Subject: Re: [OBRA Chat] 'cross brake question

John,

SRAM has production hydro road disc brakes coming in a few months.

There is nothing wrong with BB7 Road calipers and road STI levers. I have been running them on my mtbs since the road caliper came out. I like the performance better than the BB7 mtn caliper and long pull levers. Have never had issues with the levers bottoming. PLENTY of power with the modulation (I prefer not to fit over the bars). Quiet 98% of the time, too.

I would also take cantis any day over any brake with a Travel Agent. Was never able to get the TAs to hold adjustment for an entire ride. Just not worth the trouble.

-shiggy

On Monday, April 16, 2012, john wrote:

"hydraulic road disc brakes "
Doubtful. I have been running disc on my commutter bike for a year now or so. And am convinced their only advantage is that your rim doesn't get ruined. So in most places in the country/world where road cyclists don't even know what fenders are, rims don't wear (or wear incredibly slow..) , like in the gritty with lots of stops and hills northwest..
So then what is their advantage ? there is none: more weight, more force/stress on wheels and frames, and not necessarily better braking...

Now granted not ruining rims is huge advantage and I think worth it, but my experience is that they don't stop as well as good rim brake setup. And need pretty constant adjustment (which thank god is easy enough..) My front BB7s, in the rain/wet, also squeal to high heaven and scare the bejesus out of other cyclists, way way way beyond the noise ever created by the any rim / brake pad combination i have used... ( I think it has more to do with my overall system stiffness, since squeal / chatter is nat'l frequency situation... tried a couple other pads to no avail, metallic pads are next? and possibly a steel adapter... a different disc? )

Ok yes the modulation is great, but when you really need that extra lock-em-up slide the front tire /nearly flip, it's not there, and I've almost become a trunk monkey a couple times. Ok so I can set them up with a bit of drag, with of course better braking, but chose one: great brakes or no drag, you won't get both, at least not with the current designs(road BB7** ).

I think some drag is of course OK with your big downhill rig, but I would think totally unacceptable if taking a couple minutes out of your time trial ;-) ! Ok the drag is at least at a smaller diameter, so not as much drag torque, but still, it drives me nuts to have something dragging. Of course you can go to a bigger disc. But tradeoff is heavier, not as true, which means more clearance and thus either drag or not as good of brakes.... and the tiger chases tail. Ok decrease tolerances, but this hard for something that may get routinely heated dull brown and is expensive or heavier..

BTW, just in case they didn't teach this at UBI (and if they didn't, i would ask for refund ;-) :
The reason linear / v-brakes are better is because the cable tension is half (given equal hand force). Thus your cable stretch and cable housing compression is halved. (remember the huge MTB cables and housings that we use to have before v-brakes?). So it was quite good idea. Less force in the cable, thus less cable stretch = more responsive brakes, and also less weight because less stiffness required, win-win by design alone.

Another issue with bicycle brakes is too much mechanical advantage. Granted they have to work with 12 year old hand I suppose, and granted old time brake pads might have been left wanting, but I think now they need to design in some ability to adjust your mechanical advantage (like some mtb levers where you can increase or decrease the distance from pivot to cable pull..).

**The same problem that plagues canti's also plagues road mechanical discs: too much cable tension resulting in too much cable stretch and one runs out of brake lever movement. Obviously the front isn't much of an issue since cable length is short (cable spring rate being E*A/L). An upgrade for my discs will be to go to MTB bb7's and then run either long pull road levers or a "travel agent" converter. I may even further decrease my mechanical advantage (as I did on my tandem rear brake) so that I am assured of not bottoming out my brake lever and in getting proper brake pad pull-off !!

Now what happened to ceramic rims ??

All of this because I am building low count spoke wheels with tubeless... (i just can't bare to scratch up those fancy light stans rims... ) But I am saving money on not buying tubes !
(I can't even imagine carbon rims... i guess that's the real market for disc brakes.... )

Even better i suppose I buy one of those skidding tires with the extra rubber and install an old time paddle brake (or whatever they called them, foot brake??) that comes right down on the tire. the tire is a wear part anyway, use it like it is !


On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 3:40 PM, Rick Johnson wrote:

On 4/16/2012 3:34 PM, john wrote:

Maybe someday the bike industry will progress to having all brake levers be "linear pull".

We'll have hydraulic road brakes long before that happens...

Rick Johnson
Bend, Oregon

Every revolutionary idea seems to evoke three stages of reaction...
One, it's completely impossible.
Two, it's possible, but it's not worth doing.
Three, I said it was a good idea all along.

Arthur C. Clarke

--
Don Person (shiggy)
http://mtbtires.com
http://titusti.com
http://shop.on-one-usa.com

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org


don person

2012-04-17

John,

SRAM has production hydro road disc brakes coming in a few months.

There is nothing wrong with BB7 Road calipers and road STI levers. I have
been running them on my mtbs since the road caliper came out. I like the
performance better than the BB7 mtn caliper and long pull levers. Have
never had issues with the levers bottoming. PLENTY of power with the
modulation (I prefer not to fit over the bars). Quiet 98% of the time, too.

I would also take cantis any day over any brake with a Travel Agent. Was
never able to get the TAs to hold adjustment for an entire ride. Just not
worth the trouble.

-shiggy

On Monday, April 16, 2012, john wrote:

> "hydraulic road disc brakes "
> Doubtful. I have been running disc on my commutter bike for a year now or
> so. And am convinced their only advantage is that your rim doesn't get
> ruined. So in most places in the country/world where road cyclists don't
> even know what fenders are, rims don't wear (or wear incredibly slow..) ,
> like in the gritty with lots of stops and hills northwest..
> So then what is their advantage ? there is none: more weight, more
> force/stress on wheels and frames, and not necessarily better braking...
>
> Now granted not ruining rims is huge advantage and I think worth it, but
> my experience is that they don't stop as well as good rim brake setup. And
> need pretty constant adjustment (which thank god is easy enough..) My
> front BB7s, in the rain/wet, also squeal to high heaven and scare the
> bejesus out of other cyclists, way way way beyond the noise ever created by
> the any rim / brake pad combination i have used... ( I think it has more
> to do with my overall system stiffness, since squeal / chatter is nat'l
> frequency situation... tried a couple other pads to no avail, metallic pads
> are next? and possibly a steel adapter... a different disc? )
>
> Ok yes the modulation is great, but when you really need that extra
> lock-em-up slide the front tire /nearly flip, it's not there, and I've
> almost become a trunk monkey a couple times. Ok so I can set them up with
> a bit of drag, with of course better braking, but chose one: great brakes
> or no drag, you won't get both, at least not with the current designs(road
> BB7** ).
>
> I think some drag is of course OK with your big downhill rig, but I would
> think totally unacceptable if taking a couple minutes out of your time
> trial ;-) ! Ok the drag is at least at a smaller diameter, so not as much
> drag torque, but still, it drives me nuts to have something dragging. Of
> course you can go to a bigger disc. But tradeoff is heavier, not as true,
> which means more clearance and thus either drag or not as good of
> brakes.... and the tiger chases tail. Ok decrease tolerances, but
> this hard for something that may get routinely heated dull brown and is
> expensive or heavier..
>
> BTW, just in case they didn't teach this at UBI (and if they didn't, i
> would ask for refund ;-) :
> The reason linear / v-brakes are better is because the cable tension is
> half (given equal hand force). Thus your cable stretch and cable housing
> compression is halved. (remember the huge MTB cables and housings that
> we use to have before v-brakes?). So it was quite good idea. Less force
> in the cable, thus less cable stretch = more responsive brakes, and also
> less weight because less stiffness required, win-win by design alone.
>
> Another issue with bicycle brakes is too much mechanical advantage.
> Granted they have to work with 12 year old hand I suppose, and granted old
> time brake pads might have been left wanting, but I think now they need to
> design in some ability to adjust your mechanical advantage (like some mtb
> levers where you can increase or decrease the distance from pivot to cable
> pull..).
>
> **The same problem that plagues canti's also plagues road mechanical
> discs: too much cable tension resulting in too much cable stretch and one
> runs out of brake lever movement. Obviously the front isn't much of an
> issue since cable length is short (cable spring rate being E*A/L). An
> upgrade for my discs will be to go to MTB bb7's and then run either long
> pull road levers or a "travel agent" converter. I may even
> further decrease my mechanical advantage (as I did on my tandem rear
> brake) so that I am assured of not bottoming out my brake lever and in
> getting proper brake pad pull-off !!
>
> Now what happened to ceramic rims ??
>
> All of this because I am building low count spoke wheels with tubeless...
> (i just can't bare to scratch up those fancy light stans rims... ) But I
> am saving money on not buying tubes !
> (I can't even imagine carbon rims... i guess that's the real market for
> disc brakes.... )
>
> Even better i suppose I buy one of those skidding tires with the extra
> rubber and install an old time paddle brake (or whatever they called them,
> foot brake??) that comes right down on the tire. the tire is a wear part
> anyway, use it like it is !
>
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 3:40 PM, Rick Johnson
> > wrote:
>
>> On 4/16/2012 3:34 PM, john wrote:
>>
>>> Maybe someday the bike industry will progress to having all brake levers
>>> be "linear pull".
>>>
>>
>> We'll have hydraulic road brakes long before that happens...
>>
>> Rick Johnson
>> Bend, Oregon
>>
>> Every revolutionary idea seems to evoke three stages of reaction...
>> One, it's completely impossible.
>> Two, it's possible, but it's not worth doing.
>> Three, I said it was a good idea all along.
>>
>> Arthur C. Clarke
>>
>>
>>
>

--
Don Person (shiggy)
http://mtbtires.com
http://titusti.com
http://shop.on-one-usa.com


Mike Richardson

2012-04-17

Like on the P5 Cervelo?? Although I haven't seen one myself.

Mike

On Apr 16, 2012, at 3:40 PM, Rick Johnson wrote:

> On 4/16/2012 3:34 PM, john wrote:
>> Maybe someday the bike industry will progress to having all brake levers be "linear pull".
>
> We'll have hydraulic road brakes long before that happens...
>
> Rick Johnson
> Bend, Oregon
>
> Every revolutionary idea seems to evoke three stages of reaction...
> One, it's completely impossible.
> Two, it's possible, but it's not worth doing.
> Three, I said it was a good idea all along.
>
> Arthur C. Clarke
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> OBRA mailing list
> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org


"hydraulic road disc brakes "
Doubtful. I have been running disc on my commutter bike for a year now or
so. And am convinced their only advantage is that your rim doesn't get
ruined. So in most places in the country/world where road cyclists don't
even know what fenders are, rims don't wear (or wear incredibly slow..) ,
like in the gritty with lots of stops and hills northwest..
So then what is their advantage ? there is none: more weight, more
force/stress on wheels and frames, and not necessarily better braking...

Now granted not ruining rims is huge advantage and I think worth it, but my
experience is that they don't stop as well as good rim brake setup. And
need pretty constant adjustment (which thank god is easy enough..) My
front BB7s, in the rain/wet, also squeal to high heaven and scare the
bejesus out of other cyclists, way way way beyond the noise ever created by
the any rim / brake pad combination i have used... ( I think it has more
to do with my overall system stiffness, since squeal / chatter is nat'l
frequency situation... tried a couple other pads to no avail, metallic pads
are next? and possibly a steel adapter... a different disc? )

Ok yes the modulation is great, but when you really need that extra
lock-em-up slide the front tire /nearly flip, it's not there, and I've
almost become a trunk monkey a couple times. Ok so I can set them up with
a bit of drag, with of course better braking, but chose one: great brakes
or no drag, you won't get both, at least not with the current designs(road
BB7** ).

I think some drag is of course OK with your big downhill rig, but I would
think totally unacceptable if taking a couple minutes out of your time
trial ;-) ! Ok the drag is at least at a smaller diameter, so not as much
drag torque, but still, it drives me nuts to have something dragging. Of
course you can go to a bigger disc. But tradeoff is heavier, not as true,
which means more clearance and thus either drag or not as good of
brakes.... and the tiger chases tail. Ok decrease tolerances, but
this hard for something that may get routinely heated dull brown and is
expensive or heavier..

BTW, just in case they didn't teach this at UBI (and if they didn't, i
would ask for refund ;-) :
The reason linear / v-brakes are better is because the cable tension is
half (given equal hand force). Thus your cable stretch and cable housing
compression is halved. (remember the huge MTB cables and housings that
we use to have before v-brakes?). So it was quite good idea. Less force
in the cable, thus less cable stretch = more responsive brakes, and also
less weight because less stiffness required, win-win by design alone.

Another issue with bicycle brakes is too much mechanical advantage.
Granted they have to work with 12 year old hand I suppose, and granted old
time brake pads might have been left wanting, but I think now they need to
design in some ability to adjust your mechanical advantage (like some mtb
levers where you can increase or decrease the distance from pivot to cable
pull..).

**The same problem that plagues canti's also plagues road mechanical
discs: too much cable tension resulting in too much cable stretch and one
runs out of brake lever movement. Obviously the front isn't much of an
issue since cable length is short (cable spring rate being E*A/L). An
upgrade for my discs will be to go to MTB bb7's and then run either long
pull road levers or a "travel agent" converter. I may even
further decrease my mechanical advantage (as I did on my tandem rear
brake) so that I am assured of not bottoming out my brake lever and in
getting proper brake pad pull-off !!

Now what happened to ceramic rims ??

All of this because I am building low count spoke wheels with tubeless...
(i just can't bare to scratch up those fancy light stans rims... ) But I
am saving money on not buying tubes !
(I can't even imagine carbon rims... i guess that's the real market for
disc brakes.... )

Even better i suppose I buy one of those skidding tires with the extra
rubber and install an old time paddle brake (or whatever they called them,
foot brake??) that comes right down on the tire. the tire is a wear part
anyway, use it like it is !

On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 3:40 PM, Rick Johnson wrote:

> On 4/16/2012 3:34 PM, john wrote:
>
>> Maybe someday the bike industry will progress to having all brake levers
>> be "linear pull".
>>
>
> We'll have hydraulic road brakes long before that happens...
>
> Rick Johnson
> Bend, Oregon
>
> Every revolutionary idea seems to evoke three stages of reaction...
> One, it's completely impossible.
> Two, it's possible, but it's not worth doing.
> Three, I said it was a good idea all along.
>
> Arthur C. Clarke
>
>
>


Brooke Hoyer

2012-04-16

Unless you run some V's like these ...

http://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?productid=1120&catid=185&subcat=0

Still don't get the mud clearance of cantis (or the super goodness of disc).

On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 3:34 PM, john wrote:

> The problem with Canti's is of course is they are a poor design to begin
> with. Someone at Shimano? finally figured out the design fault and fixed
> with V-brakes / linear brakes.
>
> I assume though the main reason for not running V-brakes on Cross is mud
> clearance? So then this is sort of a mute point...
>
> Another issue of course is that the Road shifters/levers aren't linear
> pull, So you need the converter thingy (travel agent) for the
> brakes. Obviously if you do the Travel Agent, install up near the lever not
> the brake, or you negate the v-brake advantage. On my tandem i made my own
> travel agent and decreased the mechanical advantage even more than the
> travel agent (Since my hands are relatively strong). This way, too, I get
> proper brake pad clearance/pull-off. With the 160 lb stoker on the back I
> haven't quite been able to slide the rear tire, but with a 80 lb kid, i
> have, :-0
>
> Maybe someday the bike industry will progress to having all brake levers
> be "linear pull".
>
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 11:48 AM, Thom Schoenborn <
> thomschoenborn@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> A lot of y'all have emailed me off list with really great advice, links,
>> tips, and personal suggestions. As I'm semi-slammed today, I just wanted to
>> say thanks to everyone all at once! Much appreciated.
>>
>> -Thom
>>
>>
>> On Apr 15, 2012, at 10:09 PM, Thom Schoenborn wrote:
>>
>> > So... I may or may not have just purchased an all-carbon cross fork to
>> celebrate being the lightest I've been since... college. That said, I'm
>> still on the big side (though getting smaller every day!): 185.
>> >
>> > And since the wallet is open, I'm considering some new canti brakes.
>> >
>> > TRP EuroX Carbon Adjust
>> > TRP EuroX Mag
>> > Avid Shorty Ultimate
>> >
>> > I'm curious if one of these makes the shudder better or worse, and if
>> it's more or less likely with the carbon fork and my size. I'm also most
>> curious about ease of adjustment


Rick Johnson

2012-04-16

On 4/16/2012 3:34 PM, john wrote:
> Maybe someday the bike industry will progress to having all
> brake levers be "linear pull".

We'll have hydraulic road brakes long before that happens...

Rick Johnson
Bend, Oregon

Every revolutionary idea seems to evoke three stages of reaction...
One, it's completely impossible.
Two, it's possible, but it's not worth doing.
Three, I said it was a good idea all along.

Arthur C. Clarke


The problem with Canti's is of course is they are a poor design to begin
with. Someone at Shimano? finally figured out the design fault and fixed
with V-brakes / linear brakes.

I assume though the main reason for not running V-brakes on Cross is mud
clearance? So then this is sort of a mute point...

Another issue of course is that the Road shifters/levers aren't linear
pull, So you need the converter thingy (travel agent) for the
brakes. Obviously if you do the Travel Agent, install up near the lever not
the brake, or you negate the v-brake advantage. On my tandem i made my own
travel agent and decreased the mechanical advantage even more than the
travel agent (Since my hands are relatively strong). This way, too, I get
proper brake pad clearance/pull-off. With the 160 lb stoker on the back I
haven't quite been able to slide the rear tire, but with a 80 lb kid, i
have, :-0

Maybe someday the bike industry will progress to having all brake levers be
"linear pull".

On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 11:48 AM, Thom Schoenborn
wrote:

> A lot of y'all have emailed me off list with really great advice, links,
> tips, and personal suggestions. As I'm semi-slammed today, I just wanted to
> say thanks to everyone all at once! Much appreciated.
>
> -Thom
>
>
> On Apr 15, 2012, at 10:09 PM, Thom Schoenborn wrote:
>
> > So... I may or may not have just purchased an all-carbon cross fork to
> celebrate being the lightest I've been since... college. That said, I'm
> still on the big side (though getting smaller every day!): 185.
> >
> > And since the wallet is open, I'm considering some new canti brakes.
> >
> > TRP EuroX Carbon Adjust
> > TRP EuroX Mag
> > Avid Shorty Ultimate
> >
> > I'm curious if one of these makes the shudder better or worse, and if
> it's more or less likely with the carbon fork and my size. I'm also most
> curious about ease of adjustment


Thom Schoenborn

2012-04-16

A lot of y'all have emailed me off list with really great advice, links, tips, and personal suggestions. As I'm semi-slammed today, I just wanted to say thanks to everyone all at once! Much appreciated.

-Thom

On Apr 15, 2012, at 10:09 PM, Thom Schoenborn wrote:

> So... I may or may not have just purchased an all-carbon cross fork to celebrate being the lightest I've been since... college. That said, I'm still on the big side (though getting smaller every day!): 185.
>
> And since the wallet is open, I'm considering some new canti brakes.
>
> TRP EuroX Carbon Adjust
> TRP EuroX Mag
> Avid Shorty Ultimate
>
> I'm curious if one of these makes the shudder better or worse, and if it's more or less likely with the carbon fork and my size. I'm also most curious about ease of adjustment


Edward Rubin

2012-04-16

Cyclocross magazine had an article about comparative braking power last fall,
and the takeaway was that TRP EuroX had the least power and Avid Shorty 6 with a
low straddle cable had the most power of any tested cantis. Since shudder is a
function of front end flex and braking power the best fix for shudder is a fork
crown mounted cable stop in place of a steerer tube mounted stop, or go to
Mini-V brakes and eliminate the cable stop entirely. Velonews had some articles
by Lennard Zinn on the subject that explain it better than I can. This means you
should probably consider the TRP CX9 or CX8.4 if you have a bling budget, or
Tektro 926A for cheapskates.

As far as adjustment, threaded post brake pads like the Avid cantis or Mini-Vs
are a lot easier to set up than smooth post pads like the EuroX.

Ed

________________________________
From: Thom Schoenborn
To: OBRA remailer
Sent: Sun, April 15, 2012 10:09:34 PM
Subject: [OBRA Chat] 'cross brake question

So... I may or may not have just purchased an all-carbon cross fork to celebrate
being the lightest I've been since... college. That said, I'm still on the big
side (though getting smaller every day!): 185.

And since the wallet is open, I'm considering some new canti brakes.

TRP EuroX Carbon Adjust
TRP EuroX Mag
Avid Shorty Ultimate

I'm curious if one of these makes the shudder better or worse, and if it's more
or less likely with the carbon fork and my size. I'm also most curious about
ease of adjustment — we go through pads pretty quick during 'cross season, and
making little tweaks weekly seems par for the course. And FWIW, I don't have
carbon wheels and can't really see them in my future.

So opine, OBRA. Rain your wisdom down upon me.

-Thom
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Dan H

2012-04-16

CX90 brakes are best rim brakes for cross.
Isolate the brake all on the fork. Cable hangers and flexy forks cause shudder, not brakes.
Wonder why 1 1/2" lower bearings are popular now? Stiff steerers don't shudder.
How tall are you? Since you are in a buying mood, you should buy my bitchin Lapierre cross carbon bike. It doesn't shudder.
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/2907271786.html

Dan

On Apr 15, 2012, at 10:09 PM, Thom Schoenborn wrote:

> So... I may or may not have just purchased an all-carbon cross fork to celebrate being the lightest I've been since... college. That said, I'm still on the big side (though getting smaller every day!): 185.
>
> And since the wallet is open, I'm considering some new canti brakes.
>
> TRP EuroX Carbon Adjust
> TRP EuroX Mag
> Avid Shorty Ultimate
>
> I'm curious if one of these makes the shudder better or worse, and if it's more or less likely with the carbon fork and my size. I'm also most curious about ease of adjustment — we go through pads pretty quick during 'cross season, and making little tweaks weekly seems par for the course. And FWIW, I don't have carbon wheels and can't really see them in my future.
>
> So opine, OBRA. Rain your wisdom down upon me.
>
> -Thom
> _______________________________________________
> OBRA mailing list
> obra@list.obra.org
> http://list.obra.org/mailman/listinfo/obra
> Unsubscribe: obra-unsubscribe@list.obra.org


Thom Schoenborn

2012-04-16

So... I may or may not have just purchased an all-carbon cross fork to celebrate being the lightest I've been since... college. That said, I'm still on the big side (though getting smaller every day!): 185.

And since the wallet is open, I'm considering some new canti brakes.

TRP EuroX Carbon Adjust
TRP EuroX Mag
Avid Shorty Ultimate

I'm curious if one of these makes the shudder better or worse, and if it's more or less likely with the carbon fork and my size. I'm also most curious about ease of adjustment